There are so many reasons why I love living in Hua Hin. As a foreigner it has all the conveniences I am used to and desire as well as a laid back, resort beach lifestyle.
Occasionally though I long for the more rustic and traditional side of Thailand, the side of Thailand that isn’t dominated by tourism and amenities. If you feel the same then take a trip to Thailand’s Nan Province. Nan is both a quiet town and a tranquil province in Northern Thailand, approximately 670 kilometers from Bangkok and covers an area of 11,474 square kilometers.
Nan features six national parks, including the stunning Doi Phukha National Park, which contains mountains nearly 2,000 m high. The rich natural beauty of Nan makes it an ideal destination for trekking as the remote province sees far fewer visitors than neighboring Chiang Rai and Chiang Mai.
The provincial capital of Nan, seldom visited by Westerners, has a relaxed charm, an interesting history, some impressive temples, and a good museum. There are also a number of quality restaurants and bars along the town’s riverfront to plan your adventures into the countryside or relax after a day of sightseeing.
The largest city in Nan Province is Nan City which is located in Nan’s biggest river valley. Nan City is still quite small and can be driven across in about twenty minutes. About 100 kilometres to the north is Pua, Nan’s second largest city. Pua is really just a small town but is a good spot to base yourself when checking out the nearby Doi Phuka National Park or Silaphet Waterfall. Other towns in Nan Province are Wiang Sa, about 50 kilometres south of Nan City, Mae Charim, 100 kilometres east of Nan City, and Ban Luang, which is about 100 kilometres west.
The Nan National Museum is housed in the 1903 vintage palace of Nan’s last two feudal lords, this museum first opened its doors in 1973. In terms of collection and content, it’s one of the country’s better provincial museums, and has English labels for most items.
The ground floor has ethnological exhibits covering the various ethnic groups found in the province. Among the items on display are silverwork, textiles, folk utensils and tribal costumes.
On the 2nd floor are exhibits on Nan history, archaeology, local architecture, royal regalia, weapons, ceramics and religious art. Of the latter, the museum’s collection of Buddha images includes some rare Lanna styles as well as the floppy-eared local styles. Also on display on the 2nd floor is a rare ‘black’ elephant tusk said to have been presented to a Nan lord over 300 years ago by the Khün ruler of Chiang Tung (Kyaingtong).
Nan’s most famous Buddhist temple, Wat Phumin is celebrated for its exquisite murals that were executed during the late 19th century by a Thai Lü artist named Thit Buaphan. The exterior of the temple takes the form of a cruciform bòht (chapel) that was constructed in 1596 and restored during the reign of Chao Anantavorapitthidet (1867–74). The ornate altar in the centre of the bòht has four sides, with four Sukhothai-style sitting Buddhas facing in each direction.
Wat Phra That Chang Kham is the second-most important temple in the city after Wat Phra That Chae Haeng. The founding date is unknown, but the main wí·hăhn (sanctuary), reconstructed in 1458, has a huge seated Buddha image and faint murals that have been partially recovered.
The chedi behind the wí·hăhn is thought to date to around the same time as the temple was founded, and features elephant supports similar to those seen in Sukhothai and Si Satchanalai.
Next to the chedit is a small, undistinguished bòht from the same era. Wat Chang Kham’s current abbot tells an interesting story involving the bòht and a Buddha image that was once kept inside. According to the abbot, in 1955 art historian AB Griswold offered to purchase the 145 cm-tall Buddha inside the small bòht . The image appeared to be a crude Sukhothai-style walking Buddha molded of plaster. After agreeing to pay the abbot 25,000 thb for the image, Griswold began removing the image – but as he did it fell and the plaster around the statue broke away to reveal an original Sukhothai Buddha of pure gold underneath. Needless to say, the abbot made Griswold give it back, much to the latter’s chagrin. Did Griswold suspect what lay beneath the plaster? The abbot refuses to say. The image is now kept behind a glass partition in the hŏr đrai (Tripitaka library) adjacent to the wí·hăhn, the former the largest of its type in Thailand.
Nan Province is mostly mountainous, with many river valleys cutting their way through the peaks. The highest, most rugged mountains can be found on the Laos border. Apart from the rivers, there are many waterfalls to see and there are even some whitewater rapids you can raft or kayak down. Large portions of this province have been turned into national parks, which all have unique sights and activities. The two main rivers in this province are the Nan River and the Wa River.
Doi Phuka National Park is located a couple of hours drive east of Pua on the road to Bo Kluea. The main activities in the park are trekking and camping. There are several lookouts inside the area and anyone with a car or motorbike can easily get to these spots for some fantastic views. Another main attraction which draws a lot of Thai tourists is the flowering of the Chom Poo Doi Phuka flower which blooms in December to early January. This flower is found only in Nan Province.
Silaphet Waterfall is found close to Pua and anyone driving to Pua from Nan City will spot the signs pointing towards it quite easily. One can only access the waterfall in the cold and hot seasons as the path is flooded in the rainy season. The path to the waterfall is a few kilometres long. At the base of the path there are some riverside restaurants which serve some good local cuisine.
Mae Charim National Park is found 250 kilometres east of Nan, about 100 kilometres from the Laos border. The main activity of this park is whitewater rafting. The Wa River runs through the park and several tour agencies in the area run rafting trips to and from the park. During the rainy season the water is high and muddy. The water level drops during the cold and hot seasons which make up the peak times for rafting in this area. Mae Charim National Park also has camping facilities and restaurants which are open during peak seasons.
If you’re feeling truly adventurous then rent a tent and spend the night at Doi Wow. The night sky is illuminated by thousands of stars providing a very romantic atmosphere and when you wake up you are in the midst of many beautiful flowers.
The route up to Doi Wow is around 1,674 meters and you will pass an evergreen forest where you can really absorb nature. In the evening before sunset, three mountain peaks will appear with different shapes, Doi Chang, Doi Wua and Doi Paaji.
Nan Province has three seasons: the hot season, the rainy season and the cold season. The hot season lasts from about March until May and is characterised by sweltering temperatures, dry weather and high humidity. The rainy season lasts from June until October and is similar to the hot season except that it rains a lot. The rain does give everything a chance to cool off though so it is definitely a welcome change. After the rainy season, temperatures start dropping in the cold season, which lasts from November until February. Temperatures in the cold season drop down low at night. If you’re camping then you’ll need to bring warm clothing, and if you’re staying in a hotel or guesthouse then don’t bother getting an air-conditioned room, you won’t need it. There is no rain in the cold season so this is by far the best time to visit.
To see the best scenery it’s best to visit in November or December. Everything is still lush and green after the rainy season and the weather is cool enough so you won’t break a sweat.
The popular food here is Khao lam (glutinous rice roasted in bamboo joints) which is called Khao lam Jang locally. They use 70-90 centimeters of bamboo sticks and burn them. After burning, they peel the bamboo off and eat the rice inside. There are many kinds of sticky rice inside such as sticky white rice and sticky black rice. Visitors can find Khao lam at the roadside all along Amphur Taa Wang Paa.
A hidden gem of a province, Nan was once an independent kingdom and is now a refuge for travelers who wish to explore the natural beauty of northern Thailand and its rich cultural heritage in peace and tranquility.