Perched on the 37th floor of Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park, Akira Back offers a dining experience that is nothing short of extraordinary. The former pro snowboarder and executive chef of Nobu Matsuhisa’s restaurant in Aspen, Colorado, Akira Back has developed a global reputation for inventing ingenious dishes that pay tribute to his own personal roots, and to the quality of the ingredients he uses.
Named after its celebrated chef, it is part of a global culinary empire spanning sixteen world cities, including Jakarta, New Delhi, Singapore, and the famed Yellowtail Japanese Restaurant at the Bellagio in Las Vegas, Back has proven his mastery of fusion cuisine. His crowning achievement, DOSA in Seoul, boasts a coveted Michelin star, setting the stage for the high expectations that accompany a visit to his Bangkok outpost.
Upon entering, one is immediately struck by the spacious layout. The main dining area, sushi and omakase bar, and four private dining rooms are set against floor-to-ceiling windows that frame Bangkok’s vibrant skyline. Dark wood furnishings accented with gold and black create an ambiance of understated luxury, setting the stage for the culinary journey that awaits.
The evening begins with a Yuzu Sour cocktail, a refreshing blend of sake, vodka, and yuzu that awakens the palate. The first dish, Tuna Pizza, is a delightful surprise. Thin slices of ahi sashimi rest atop a crispy crust, adorned with ponzu mayo, micro red shiso, and aromatic truffle oil. The combination creates a harmony of flavors, with umami notes dancing on the tongue.
Next, we’re treated to the Yellowtail Tartare, a dish that exemplifies Back’s commitment to interactive dining. Presented alongside nine different spices and condiments, including aromatic ginger, pungent garlic, and an assortment of sea vegetables, the tartare is a canvas for culinary creativity. Our server skillfully combines these elements, finishing with a light shoyu drizzle before serving the mixture atop a perfectly toasted flatbread. Each bite is a complex tapestry of flavors, textures, and aromas.
The seafood journey continues with a scallop dish that redefines expectations. Two massive shells arrive, each cradling a tender scallop nestled in a spicy kimchi sauce and crowned with a snowfall of shaved parmesan. This unexpected pairing of Korean and Italian influences elevates the dish to new heights, the kimchi’s heat perfectly balanced by the cheese’s umami richness.
A nod to Back’s Korean heritage comes in the form of AB Tacos. These aren’t your average street food; crispy shells cradle juicy minced wagyu galbi, topped with a vibrant tomato ponzu sauce. The interplay of textures – crispy shell, tender meat – and flavors – rich beef, tangy sauce – is a testament to Back’s ability to reimagine classic concepts.
The pinnacle of the savory courses is undoubtedly the Wagyu Angus Ribeye. Slow-cooked for an astounding 48 hours, the meat achieves a level of tenderness that borders on ethereal. Accompanied by carefully selected pickled components and a silky, umami-rich sauce, each bite is a complex and exciting exploration of flavor and texture.
Returning to seafood, were served The Hot Mess. This signature uramaki roll showcases a perfect harmony of textures, with crispy crab tempura and creamy avocado at its core. Crowned with a vibrant sashimi poke of salmon, yellowtail, and tuna, it offers a luxurious medley of the ocean’s finest. The crowning glory is a generous, artfully messy drizzle of spicy ponzu aioli, delivering a tantalizing heat that lives up to the dish’s playful name.
Also appearing tableside is their Perfect Storm, a culinary tempest that marries crispy shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, and cool cucumber, enveloped in torch-kissed salmon belly. Drizzled with smoky chipotle mayo and sweet mango sauce, this roll creates a rare confluence of textures and flavors. Each bite is a harmonious clash of crispy and soft, spicy and sweet, smoky and fresh – a true gastronomic phenomenon.
No meal is complete without dessert, and Akira Back doesn’t disappoint. The Valrhona Lava Souffle, filled with Madagascar Manjari Dark Chocolate, is a chocoholic’s dream. Paired with Madagascar vanilla ice cream, it offers a journey through the island’s finest exports in one decadent dish.
Our sweet odyssey concludes with the Honey Yogurt Panna Cotta. Topped with a caramelized fruit crust, vanilla ice cream, and crushed nuts, it’s a symphony of textures and flavors. The panna cotta’s creamy consistency and subtle tang provide a perfect counterpoint to the sweet crunch of the topping.
Throughout the meal, one can’t help but notice the uniquely designed plates, each featuring colorful borders created by Akira Back’s mother. These personal touches add to the overall experience, reinforcing Back’s dining philosophy of “fueling the soul.”
Akira Back is more than just a restaurant; it’s a celebration of culinary artistry that stimulates all the senses. From the moment you step into the elegantly appointed space to the last lingering taste of dessert, every aspect of the experience is carefully crafted to delight and surprise.
For those seeking an evening of gastronomic exploration in Bangkok, Akira Back stands as a must-visit destination. It offers a unique fusion of Korean and Japanese cuisines, elevated by global influences and executed with impeccable skill. As with any premium dining experience in the city, reservations are essential. Prepare yourself for a culinary journey that will redefine your expectations of Asian fusion cuisine – Akira Back awaits to take your taste buds on an unforgettable adventure.
By Andy Klukowski
Akira Back Bangkok
37th Floor, Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park
199 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Klong Ton, Khet Khlong Toei,
Krung Thep Maha Nakhon 10110, Thailand
+66 (0)2 059 5999