The Allium Restaurant, on the third floor of the Athene Hotel exudes an air of elegance one can see and feel. The moment one enters, the sophisticated and tasteful décor creates a warm and inviting atmosphere. Whether it is an intimate dinner, or a social gathering in one of the many private rooms, it is perfect. I was already aware of the restaurant’s reputation for gastronomic delights. The ambience convinced me that this would be an extraordinary evening.
The first starter for the evening was the beautifully balanced Tuna Tartare, with coconut foam and yuzu. The impeccably sourced, fresh, finely diced tuna delivers a melt-in-your-mouth experience. The addition of coconut foam adds a delightful richness. The yuzu brings an invigorating citrus punch. This tartare is a standout starter that shines a light on the innovative approach to dining at Allium restaurant.
Our next starter, the French Onion Soup, is a masterful tribute to comfort food. The stock is lovingly prepared over a five-day period. The rich caramelized sweet onions provide a depth of flavor enhanced by the perfectly seasoned broth. The cheese, and the toast, lightly charred and crisp, allows for an enjoyable textural contrast. This wonderful comfort food is perfection during any season of the year.
Next up was the Squid BBQ. Lightly grilled squid boasts a delightful smoky texture. This pairs beautifully with the creamy avocado. The dish’s overall texture is enhanced by the addition of crispy cucumber. The squid gains a fragrant quality from the ink vinaigrette, as this also adds a depth of eye-catching appeal. Each bite is a culinary journey through contrasting flavors and textures. The chips accompanying this dish are made from banana blossoms, delicately fried, and used to scoop up the squid BBQ.
I would be remiss not to mention the attentiveness and impeccable service of the staff. They successfully made us feel not only welcomed, but pampered as well.
The first main of the evening was the Wagyu Beef Tenderloin, with bordelaise sauce, and served with potato gratin. This tenderloin is a culinary masterpiece that showcases the unmatched quality of Thai ingredients sourced from a herd of the best imported Japanese cattle, raised in the cooler regions of Thailand’s north. The tenderloin is cooked to absolute perfection, exhibiting a texture that is highlighted by the rich marbling of the meat. The flavor is further enhanced by the robust, luscious bordelaise sauce. This classic French sauce of red wine and veal stock complements the beef impeccably. The tenderloin is served with expertly prepared, potato gratin, which provides a creamy, cheesy, counterpart to the tenderloin. Steak lovers, this is for you.
A pleasant break from the beef was next, Hokkaido scallops, a stunning culinary creation that captures both the eyes and palate alike. Elegantly plated, these perfectly seared scallops are adorned with a velvety pumpkin foam which is further showcased by delicate sprinkle of coffee powder, leading to an unexpected depth of flavor. The richness of the scallops, and the pumpkin coffee foam create a harmonious blend of textures and tastes. This is a must-try for anyone searching for an extraordinary seafood experience that is also an artistic expression.
The last main kept us on the seafood trajectory. The Red Snapper with Fennel Salad and Stuffed Eggplant is a beautifully crafted dish. The blend of textures and flavors is a delight. The succulent, flaky snapper is perfectly complemented by the refreshing crunch of fennel. The accompanying, stuffed eggplant adds an earthy depth to the dish. The seasoning enhances the natural flavors, without overpowering them. The presentation is also visually stunning with its vibrant colors.
First dessert, Rosa de Sables takes the diner straight to the tropics. The rich, dark ice cream is sourced from Chumphon, Thailand. This decadent dessert is luxuriously creamy, boasting deep, intense cocoa flavor, balanced by a zesty, orange marmalade. This is the perfect way to create a well-rounded, and indulgent finish to a fine meal. Rosa de Sables is an unforgettable treat that caters to chocolate lover’s delights.
Allium Restaurant’s Baked Alaska is a true showstopper. The vibrant strawberry sorbet provides a refreshing burst of flavor, while the velvety vanilla and chocolate create pure luxury in dining. Adding Grand Marnier adds the elegance of citrus, enhancing the complexity of the dessert. Each bite is a delightful interplay of textures and tastes, both visually stunning and decadently delicious.
This evening at Allium Restaurant excelled in every aspect, from the exquisite food to the attentive service. The innovative flavors and high-quality ingredients showcase culinary artistry that will leave a lasting impression on every diner. Complementing the stellar cuisine is an expertly curated selection of wines that offer perfect pairings for each dish. Overall, Allium stands out as a “top-of-the-line” dining destination.
By Andrew Klukowski
Allium Bangkok
3rd Floor Athenee Hotel
Address: 61 Wireless Road
Lumpini, Pathum Wan, Bangkok
+66 (0) 2-650 8800
TheAlliumBangkok.TheAthenee@luxurycollection.com