This month’s Let’s Go takes us to a destination in central Thailand where you can partake in an array of wonderful and truly Thai activities. Lopburi is one of those places that allows you to explore some of the most authentically exotic facets that Thai culture has to offer. From the most casual and relaxed of trips viewing their now famous sunflower fields, to their large and wonderful Pa Sak Jolasid Dam, to feeding the curious and mischievous monkeys at their monthly banquet.
First though, let’s travel back in time fourteen hundred years ago to the seventh century, when Lopburi was part of the illustrious Dvaravati territorial ensemble. This period which lasted seven hundred years between the sixth and the thirteenth century was a diaspora of chiefdoms that centered itself into loosely gathered territories. Amongst them was of course, Lopburi itself, which gained a further identity of its own when King Kalavarnadish founded it in 648.
King Kalavarnadish had come all the way from the then North Western Indian territory of Taxila, which today is part of Pakistan’s Punjabi Rawalpindi district. It quickly consolidated itself to become one of the most important hubs of the Chao Phraya basin.
Back then, Lopburi was known as Lavapura. Its etymology breaks down into the terms “Lava” and “Pura”. The former is literally the name of the Son of Lord Rama and the latter is the Sanskrit word for city. This was already the name of what is currently the Pakistani city of Lahore, as it was believed to have been founded by him.
When King Kalavarnadish took reign, he named his kingdom Lavapuri two, in honour and extension of Lava’s name. (Neighbouring Laos is also said to have been named in his honour) History thus adapted the roots for the city and province to eventually be called Lopburi, as it is known in modern day Thailand.
Lopburi never lost its importance in the face of history, mentioned in the diary chronicles of the famous Marco Polo, it was an important trade hub with China. Further down the years, when the Ayutthaya Kingdom was founded in the fourteenth century, this place became the bastion of the rulers’ operation bases. Surely enough, given its administrative importance, king Narai the Great would proceed to make the city the Kingdom’s capital in the seventeenth century and purportedly resided there eight months a year during which he reigned as monarch.
As mentioned earlier, Lopburi’s vast sunflower fields are a tranquil and wonderful attraction to indulge in during your trip there. Fields upon fields of the most fully bloomed sunflowers await to dazzle with their flashy yellow tints and hypnotizing central stigma. The best time of the year to see them (as well as the best time of the year to travel to Thailand) starts in the month of November and is the perfect moment to see the lush flora growing in the Lopburi fields. Sunflowers are particularly important to Lopburi because of the fact that they drive much of the economy in the province.
Domestic cooking products such as oil is manufactured through them along with other seeds and edibles. The harvest begins during November too and farmers plant them in turns so that there are always fields in full bloom. The amazing sight of these has become a major tourist attraction, especially amongst the local Bangkok populace, who only have to travel an average of two hours to witness this marvelous feat of nature.
When in Lopburi the best time to view the sunflowers is during the early hours of sunlight, as this is when the flowers rise and shine to face the sun and consolidate their intake of nutrient rich rays. The farmers to which the fields belong charge a marginal price of ten baht to stroll through and take pictures.
In your quest to go to this flowery paradise, you can either drive or take the train. The State Railways of Thailand, also known as the SRT, organises inexpensive trips to Lopburi from Bangkok’s main train station. It is not only a much more exotic way of travelling but is also a much more inspiring way of getting there, as the sights are wonderful.
If you are planning to go by train, make sure that you book your trip at least a few days in advance, as the journey tends to be popular during the high season. The train also stops at the aforementioned Pa Sak Jolasid Dam, named officially by Thailand’s current king, it is one of Thailand’s major irrigation projects. The dam project has been of great value for farming benefitting the neighboring population.
Lopburi is also very well known due to the number of macaques that wander the streets at free will, making the city a monkey paradise. They are a homogeneous part of the society and are treated with the utmost respect by everyone that lives or visits the place.
The monkeys are well treated because it is believed they provide good luck, something that locals hail in great regard. The veneration for them dates back to the Hindu influence that King Kalavarnadish brought into this area, in which the deity Lord Hanuman is vividly worshiped and symbolically represented. Thus, the people in Lopburi (who have always hailed these creatures) decided to set aside a day dedicated entirely to them.
The monthly monkey banquet began in 1989 when Yongyuth Kitwatananusont, owner of the Lopburi Inn, prepared the very first banquet to them. A very great day for the monkey’s indeed!
The monthly procession, begins at ten in the morning amongst the ruins of the temples of Khmer architecture and attracts numerous tourists and onlookers. Dances and rituals ensue, along with a speech by the city’s governor who officially inaugurates and invites the apes to feast on the delicacies presented to them.
One would be right to assume that given their mischievous reputation and occasional nuisance to the public of Lopburi, they would assault the tables like savages. Quite the contrary however, the macaques are surprisingly well behaved, to the point where they even shy away from the public that observe their delight. But monkeys are monkeys and as you might have guessed, there is indeed a catch, as upon gaining the trust of the public, they proceed to dance and throw the food around in a crazy but amusing frenzy which puts smiles on those in attendance.
Lopburi is a wonderful place to visit for a few days to take in the beautiful sights along with its interesting and exotic culture. It is easy to get to and should be added to your “must see” list.